KosherSquared - December 2023
A note on the new normal post-October 7th, a Michelin starred chef opens a kosher restaurant in NYC, the top 10 best kosher restaurants in Brooklyn, and unity from Druz going kosher in Israel.
Jews & Food Caught In “The Fray” Post-October 7th
October 7th is a day that will live in infamy in the minds of Israelis and many Jews. As the Israel-Hamas war continues, Jews in the United States are feeling under attack, including when it comes to food establishments.
While ideally, we like to hope that food is a great equalizer and can even be used to foster peace, camaraderie, coexistence, and a broader sense of understanding that crosses lines of various kinds, whether religious, national, or cultural, the reality is that while it can help to build bridges, it is also often one of the first casualties of war and other conflict.
Since our last edition, Israel and, by extension, Jewish communities across the globe have entered a “new normal” in the post-October 7th world. As Israel fights a war it views as “existential” while at the same time trying to rescue as many hostages as possible, tensions in Jewish communities are high. Exacerbating the moment is the surprising blasé attitude of sizable segments of society toward the horrific events of October 7th, and, at times, even open support for a terrorist organization like Hamas. From Jewish students on campuses being threatened with feeble to no action from the administration, such as what we covered occurring at Cornell, to Jewish-owned restaurants, such as Goldie in Philadelphia, coming under attack from angry protectors, many view the current moment as one of if not the most, concerning times for Jewry worldwide, including in the United States. Even well-loved brands like McDonald’s find themselves in the fray. Not to mention that somehow, Israeli-owned restaurants, such as Eyal Shani’s (we cover his latest kosher restaurant opening in NYC later on in this edition) HaSalon Miami, where the manager removed a diner for waving an Israeli flag, and was subsequently fired by Shani. In addition to threats and mobs aimed at threatening Jewish establishments, others have been vandalized. Hummus Kitchen on Second Avenue in New York City was attacked twice in almost as many days, with the owner pleading for protection from the City.
With no clear end in sight to the Israel-Hamas conflict and the future of peace in the region as a whole has a big open question mark, we, unfortunately, can expect to see more of this tension and potentially even more attacks on Jewish food establishments.
Michelin-Starred Israeli Chef Eyal Shani Brings Kosher Restaurant “Malka” To NYC
At a time when news from Israel and for the Jewish community in general is negative, positive news, such as the opening of a kosher restaurant by a Michelin-starred Israeli chef, is more than welcome news.
At a time when much of the news is about the horrific events of October 7th and the war that followed, positive news is in short supply but more than welcome.
The exciting development comes as Michelin-starred Israeli chef Eyal Shani brings kosher restaurant “Malka” to NYC, his first kosher-certified restaurant outside of Israel. Malka is a somewhat casual spot in the same space previously occupied by one of Shani’s restaurants called “North Miznon” (which wasn’t certified kosher). The restaurant has been met with much acclaim and joins Manhattan’s vibrant kosher restaurant landscape.
The Opening Is Bittersweet
While the opening of a flagship restaurant in “the city that never sleeps” is a joyous time under regular circumstances, the opening of Malka comes a bit more than a month after the terrible attacks by Hamas on communities in southern Israel and the bloody war that followed. In the aftermath of October 7th, Shani closed his numerous restaurants in Israel and converted them into volunteer kitchens providing thousands of meals to frontline responders, including soldiers. After a few weeks of public service, Shani reopened his restaurants, and though he felt torn about traveling, the opening of Malka occurred in mid-November 2023.
It is the first time in my life that I don’t have the will to travel, to get out of Israel, because of the situation in Israel now. - Eyal Shani
Menu Items Of Note
Like several of Shani’s other restaurants, Malka’s menu will vary seasonally and “showcase the flavors of Israeli cuisine with the freshest ingredients sourced locally.”
The inaugural menu will include the hallmark “Jewish-inflected” ramen chicken soup and a chicken schnitzel stuffed with mashed potatoes that “ooze out,” a signature dish in the founding location, Malka Tel Aviv.
Other notable menu items include a charred beetroot carpaccio and lamb shank. While fish and meat feature throughout the menu, like many of Shani’s other restaurants, there is a strong showing of vegetables, including an item titled “A pile of everything white and green.”
The Top 10 Best Kosher Restaurants In Brooklyn
While Brooklyn’s kosher food scene is often overshadowed by its more glitzy sister borough, Manhattan, our list of top 10 kosher restaurants in Brooklyn illustrates the many reasons to dine at Brooklyn’s kosher restaurants.
While Brooklyn is arguably the most “hip” borough of New York City, it is also one of the most diverse from a Jewish perspective. By extension, Brooklyn has a plethora of diverse, great kosher restaurants to offer. Our ranking of the top 10 best Brooklyn kosher restaurants illustrates how Brooklyn has something to offer everyone, from Williamsburg’s “heimish” old-school delis to the more bohemian restaurants of Crown Heights and Flatbush.
While Brooklyn has a lot to offer the kosher diner, specific Jewish neighborhoods of the borough, such as Flatbush, have been losing a sizable share of its young population to the environs of Lakewood, which, as a result, has a burgeoning and arguably the most dynamic kosher restaurant scene. In addition, if someone has tried all the great restaurants in Brooklyn or wants to get a taste of what the small island called Manhattan offers, a short hop over the East River brings one to some of the “Big Apple’s” most iconic and legendary kosher restaurants.
Druze Restaurant In Israel’s North Goes Kosher In An Encouraging Sign Of Unity
With war and uncertainty permeating life in Israel, signs of unity, in particular across religious, ethnic, and cultural lines, are encouraging, and a well-reviewed Druze restaurant becoming kosher-certified to feed soldiers and evacuees gives reason for optimism.
Noor, a restaurant in the Druze village of Julis in Northern Israel, has been certified kosher in their effort to provide free meals to soldiers and evacuees during the ongoing multifront war, including Hamas in the south of the country and Hezbollah in the north.
“Noor Restaurant is changing its concept: from a non-kosher restaurant to a kosher one! In a fortunate turn of events, we have received kosher certification, and from now on, all soldiers will enjoy kosher Druze cuisine.” - Local Druze Resident
In a further sign of unity that many are hopeful will continue as the country navigates an immensely challenging time, the ultra-orthodox UTJ party was instrumental in orchestrating the kosher certification of the Druze restaurant.
Basma Hino, the proprietor of the restaurant, stated:
“We asked to kasher the place for the benefit of the soldiers. We will happily replace the entire menu so that we can feed our kosher-observant soldiers…”
Noor is very well-reviewed and has hundreds of 4.5+ star reviews. By all accounts, Druze cusine is unique, varied, and delicious, and we hope Noor continues to see success, including as an option for the kosher diner.
Thank you for reading this edition of KosherSquared.
Please feel free to provide your comments or news tips here.